A strand of beautiful South Sea cultured pearls is indeed an
investment. South Sea cultured pearls are the largest and
rarest pearls in fine jewelry market today. We'll start with
a brief history then on to pearl specifics and value factors.
Lastly, we'll look at where to shop for South Sea pearls.
A Brief History Of South Sea Pearls
Natural South Sea pearls were first discovered in the 1880's
inside large oysters off the northwest coast of Australia. The
oysters were collected for their shells as well as a food source.
Pearls were found only in a handful of collected oysters. Fifty
years later the oysters became depleted. After careful research,
culturing methods were developed and oyster population nursed
back to health.
Today, South Sea cultured pearls are the rarest and largest
in the world. Australia is the preeminent culturing center
producing the majority of South Sea pearls, Indonesia and the
Philippines strongly contribute to the remaining portion.
South Sea Cultured Pearls At A Glance
Size range: 9 millimeters to 20 millimeters (or 0.35 in
to 0.79 in)
Average size: 12 millimeters to 13 millimeters (or 0.5 in)
Growth time: 20 - 24 months
Oyster: Pinctada Maxima or Gold and Silver Lipped oysters
Color range: White to Golden
South Sea Cultured Pearl Value Factors
Values are dependant on both visible factors of the specific
pearl as well as the entire strand. These factors are:
1. Luster
2. Shape or Roundness
3. Surface Cleanliness
4. Matching
5. Color
6. Size
1. Luster
Luster is the most important factor when determining the value of
a pearl. A good way to talk about pearl luster is in terms of a
mirror. A pearl with good luster will be very shiny and bright.
Images will be clearly reflected, almost like a mirror. Details
such as facial features can be seen in the reflection as well.
South sea pearl luster is a soft glow coming from within. Only
a rare handful will display a clear reflection and very bright
shine.
To look for a good luster, hold the pearls at a distance where
you can clearly and comfortably see your reflection - usually
about six to seven inches away. Can you see your eyes
differentiated from your face? What other background can you
see? If the reflection is clear then, the luster is good.
2. Shape or Roundness
The next prominent value factor is the shape of the pearl or how
round the pearl is. Round is the most valued of all cultured
pearl shapes. Next are symmetrical shapes such as drops or
buttons. Oysters are hand turned during pearl growth to ensure
a rounder pearl. The great majority of the South Sea cultured
pearls are significantly less than round. As a result, a round
pearl is very rare and very valued.
3. Surface Cleanliness
The pearl's surface the pearl does need to be completely clean
for good shine and radiance. Pearls are natural gems, as a
result, the surface will have some blemishing. A few rare pearls
will have a surface or body that is relatively free of blemishes.
As a result, these are very, very valuable. Pearl drilling as
well as jewelry setting should take into account any surface
blemishes.
4. Matching
It can take sifting through over 10,000 individual pearls to find
two well matched ones for stud earrings. Multiply this effort by
a full strand of well matched pearls - this rarity makes a well
matched strand more valuable than the combined value of the
individual pearls.
When judging for well matched pearls, simply look at the entire
strand. There will be just a slight variation as pearls are
natural gems. The variation should be pleasing and
complementary.
5. Color
There are two main colors of South Sea Pearls - white and golden.
When making this choice, think about which colors will look best
on you. Pearls are unique as they do reflect ambient light in
the most flattering way. As a result, they will flatter you.
Some skin, hair and eye color combinations will favor one color
over another. To choose, hold the pearls up by your face and
look in a mirror. Switch between the colors to see which best
complements you.
Also, pearl color can vary under different lighting sources.
Florescent light, shaded light and an overcast sky tend to
intensify blues. Incandescent and both the rising or setting
sun, intensify oranges, reds and yellows. For the truest color,
look at your pearls in sunlight at about midday. If you are
indoors, move the pearls from one type of light source to
another.
Golden South Sea cultured pearls command a higher value. When
investing in Golden South Sea pearls, look for deep color
saturation. Lighter shades often described as vanilla, light
honey, champagne and light gold can of lesser value.
6. Size
The size of the pearls also effect value. A larger pearl with
similar other value factors will be more valuable than a smaller
one. However, there is a size range where values increase
exponentially. South Sea pearls average between 12mm to 13mm.
As a result, pearls at or under that size range are more readily
available. When the size range increases to 13mm to 14m and
subsequent 14mm to 15mm and greater than 16mm ranges, the value
increases dramatically. Pearls larger than 20mm are very rare.
Where To Buy?
Very few strands with very high ratings in all the above value
factors are regularly available on the fine jewelry market. As a
result, be ready to research and shop around. I personally like
online stores as they tend to have less overhead expenses passed
on to you, the customer. This often results in lower prices.
However, it is very helpful to see and touch real strands as
well.
Here are a few factors to look for when choosing where to buy to
buy your pearls
A. Friendly and knowledgeable staff
B. Good and varied selection of pearls
C. Excellent return policy - Minimum of 30 days for a full refund
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