I was hanging out in Downtown Skagway waiting to fly over the
mountain to our next stop, Gustavus.  The fog was low and thick
in both towns, temporarily grounding all flights.

There isn't much to the downtown except tourist shops and
tourists.  Some of the shops are interesting and even have
reasonable prices.  The tourists, however, have a tendency to
crowd the sidewalks and pour into the streets, seldom watching
for traffic.  I acted the same way the first time I walked down
State Street, but after four days I saw the "Disneyland
atmosphere" clearly.  The locals say their daily forecasts have
nothing to do with the weather, but with the number of cruise
ships scheduled to dock.  Our hostess remarked one morning "I’ve
got to get to the store early, it's a four-boat day." 

During our stay in Skagway we spent most of our time away from
downtown.  We visited Dyea and the start of the Chilkoot Trail,
getting a tour from nationally known "Dyea Dave."  We did some
half-serious hiking, took the train to Lake Bennett and listened
to our share of stories from the locals.

Today I was stuck downtown, not able to venture very far because
it was necessary to check in with the pilot every hour or so.

I noticed a trail on the town map that crossed the Skagway River
just past the airstrips and went around Yakutania Point.  Since
I needed a little peace and quiet anyway, I ditched my travel
companions and took off into the fog.  The trail was just a
kid's bike path. 

The noise of the town soon disappeared behind me.  The fog
limited my visibility.  I entered a new world, hearing whales
even before I arrived at the point of boulders.  This world was
cool and misty.  I climbed out on the boulders separating two
inlets, one busy and noisy, and one removed and full of wild
things.  I sat down on a cold stone and attuned by senses.  I
couldn't see the whale; but its breathing seemed so close.  I
sat quietly. I heard the whales breathe repeatedly, just
across the small inlet leading to Dyea. I sat in blind silence
and listened.  Blow.  Silence.  Blow.  Silence.  Two dolphins
swam by below me.  Silence.  Blow.  Silence. 

That is where I met Alaska that day. The experience was simple,
yet overwhelming.

The easy sights aren't always the best sights, often created for
the tourists.  The best experiences often take a little effort
to discover.  When visiting someplace new, remember what brought
you there in the first place:  the mountains, the ocean, the
river, the ancient sights, the fall colors, or the whales. 

Paths began to beckon Theresa when she was 12, visiting the
Bridger Wilderness in Wyoming. Walking, dancing, and movement
are a part of her, nourished by John Denver's musical challenge
for her to "fly." She has walked up mountains and through
forests in Wyoming, Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. She's
lived in Germany and has traveled extensively in Europe, even
leading a pilgrimage. Her recent walks in the Grand Canyon and
Alaska inspired her to begin her dream business of "walking with
women." Learn more about Theresa Gabriel and her Life Discovery
Tours at her web site. Women Summit LLC 
http://www.womensummit.com