Pearls are one of the most sought after gems in the world.
Unlike a diamond, this meek gem has a soft translucent
glow that only enhances the beauty of the individual who
wears it. Whether it’s a string of pearls, a bracelet, or
a pair of earrings one wears, this gem is highly
appreciated by women and men. In today’s market, it’s
important to know how to determine the quality of a pearl.
Dealers use the same alphabetical nomenclature (AA, B or
C) to rate the quality of their jewelry, however, there is
no internationally accepted standard used to grade pearls.
This means that two jewelers rating the same pearl may
have two totally different ratings. A pearl’s quality is
apparent to the naked eye, which sets it apart from all
other gems. Learning the differences can help to make an
accurate judgment.
While evaluating a pearl for its quality, there are three
things to keep in mind. First, the background you select
will affect how well you can see the imperfections. The
best surface is one that is neutral and non-glossy (light
gray or white is best). Second, the choice of lighting
(white fluorescent or natural daylight) for viewing the
pearl will affect its appearance. Viewing in direct
sunlight or on a clouded day will give the pearl a false
appearance. Lastly, it is easier to see the differences
in color and luster by properly holding the pearl at a
right angle to your body.
Six categories are used to factor a pearls quality:
luster; orient; nacre thickness and quality; color;
surface perfection; shape and size.
Noted first by its admirer is the pearl’s lustrous glow.
Luster is the surface brilliancy of pearls and the best
expression of a pearl’s beauty. Reflections of light can
be seen in pearls with a very high luster. Pearls with a
low luster have a milky or chalky appearance to them.
Often if the luster appears uniform the pearl is of good
quality. Gently roll the pearl and examine it under
light. As the light hits the pearl, colors gleam across
the surface of the pearl showing off its brilliance. The
quality of color (iridescent orient) indicates the quality
and thickness of the nacre, which ultimately determines a
pearl’s longevity. Luster and iridescent orient are
important to the beauty of a pearl. For a pearl to be
lustrous, it implies the structural beauty of the nacre
(nay-ker). The nacre is the secretion from which the pearl
was initially formed. The thicker the nacre: the better
quality of pearl.
The “play of color”, or combination of body color and
overtone, make a huge determination in the value (cost) of
a pearl. Some colors are rare and carry a higher dollar
amount on the market. Body color and overtone are the two
principal elements used to evaluate the color of white
cultured pearls. Body color is the predominant basic color
of the pearl. These colors include white, light pink or
pink, light cream, and dark cream, yellow or golden. The
overtone refers to the pearls secondary “tint” and is only
one or two colors in the central dark areas of the pearls.
Overtone colors include pink, silver, and green. A pink
body color is rare and more valuable but pink overtones
are common and have a low value. Gray to black pearls with
green or pink overtones are more natural.
Blemishes and imperfections (spots or flaws) are factors
that disturb the surface smoothness of the pearl. Cracks,
spots, blisters or pimples can greatly affect quality.
During pearl cultivation, natural blemishes are formed. A
pearl must have a low number of imperfections to be
classified as a high quality gem. A flawless pearl by the
unaided eye is nonexistent.
The final factors are size and shape. Natural pearls are
measured by carats and cultured pearls are measured by
diameter (millimeters). Since large pearls are rare they
hold a higher value on the market. Spherical (round),
symmetrical (tear drop), and baroque (irregular) are the
three shapes used to categorize pearls. Spherical pearls
hold the highest value.
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